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After visiting the second winery, we climbed to an even higher elevation and turned down the most primitive road we had traveled that day. Grape vines gave way to a scattering of olive trees and then to a huge grove. We pulled off the road, walked up about 200 feet and around a final corner. Hidden among the trees and several small gardens of tomatoes, eggplant, and various herbs, we saw our lunch spot like something out of a fairy tale book. It was an elaborate roadside picnic park complete with a fairy godfather who had arranged everything, set the table with the real stuff (no paper plates here), cooked the meal and served it beautifully. We sat facing the sea with a postcard village off to our left and still more grapevines scrambling up the mountain behind us. Fresh anchovies, cheese, olives, chicken, olive paste, steak, vegetables, olive oil and bread. Oh . . . how could I forget? Wine. The fairy godfather's mother appeared with dessert. Grapes and pomegranates she had just picked and a small bowl of candied almonds. A picture perfect romantic lunch.